Ultra Light Fall Tamarack Jacket

Tamarack with Denali Pocket Detail | Style Maker Fabrics

The Tamarack jacket was made for fall—the perfect layer to throw on for those chilly mornings when you aren’t quite sure what weather will do. Last fall I sewed up my first Tamarack, quilting and all, in a sueded coating and flannel combination. While I want nothing more than to pull this out of the closet to enjoy again this season, the weather just isn’t cooperating! Hovering right around 60° F, my cozy quilted Tamarack is a bit TOO cozy…

Classic Take on Grainline's Tamarack | Style Maker Fabrics

To get my Tamarack fix I thought I would sew up another version, a little lighter this time, that I can wear now as we continue to transition to cooler weather. Thinking about my favorite RTW ultra light puffy jacket, why not try to create something similar? I know… a handmade down jacket… not really something you just sew, right? Lucky for me, we found some amazing quilted nylon coatings to have in the shop this fall. They aren’t real down, but they will do the trick AND the quilting is all done for me!

Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket | Style Maker Fabrics

Keeping with the navy kick I have been on lately, I picked a coating that has a soft navy matte nylon on one side and a black ripstop nylon on the other. It is the perfect weight for the jacket I have in mind—light but warm! Since we don’t have un-quilted nylon to match, I experimented with a few different pre-made bias tapes to pair with it—jersey knit, denim chambray, leather. So many good options, but I kept coming back to this “Liberty inspired” floral lawn bias. I love the feminine touch that it adds to the more utilitarian fabric and the background color matches perfectly!

Since I was saving so much time on this project by using pre-quilted fabric, I decided to go the extra mile and bind all the seams with the gorgeous cotton lawn bias tape. This project is actually perfect for Hong Kong finished seams, you can actually bind almost all of the edges BEFORE you sew it together! The only seams I did not finish were the armholes (front and back), sleeve caps and sleeve hems. Note: This method does require twice as much bias binding as the pattern call for—about 10 yards.

Bias Tape Tutorial | Style Maker Fabrics

As an experienced quilter, I always finish my binding, even on garments, like I would a quilt with diagonal joins. Check out this tutorial I did over on Sew Mama Sew blog a while back for lots of great bias sewing tips on garments. Being a glutton for punishment, bias binding means lots of hand sewing! I just can’t bring myself to finish it by machine… I like the clean look of hand tacking it down on the reverse site. Bright side? It is a great TV project and with all the great new fall shows I am ok with that!

PRO TIP! When binding my pieces ahead of time, I actually planned out my front pieces and neckline so that I could finish the binding all the way around, catching the shoulder seams inside. I finished the binding across each shoulder and around the sides, hems and fronts and the left enough bias unattached to go around part way around neckline. Once I stitched the shoulder seams and pressed the seam open, I attached and finished the binding the rest of the way around the neckline joining the two ends at the center back.

Once I had all the seams bound the jacket went together really quickly. I decided not to bind the arm holes, but elected to serge both sides of the seam allowance instead. Once the side seams were sewn I finished the sleeves off with a bit more bias binding and I was done! Now for the pockets… I wasn’t going to attempt welt pockets with the nylon fabric. The standard pockets on the Tamarack also aren’t my favorite design. Using Meg’s version as inspiration, I elected to use the pocket pieces from Seamwork’s Denali vest instead (Pages 42-43 and 50-51, if you have the pattern!). I bound the open edge with binding, serged the remaining edges, turned them under and topstitched each pocket in place.

Tamarack with Denali Pocket Detail | Style Maker Fabrics

A couple of notes on the nylon quilted fabric. First, this fabric was a breeze to cute and sew! It was actually less slippery that I thought it was going to be and even the more difficult set in sleeves went in easily. Second, I did notice that with little resistance from the fabric, the quilting stitches were tempted to come unstitched along the edges with all the handling. This wasn’t much of an issue since I bound all the seams but it might be a good idea to Fray Check the edges where you cut thru the quilting threads to hold them in place. Last, pressing was a bit of an issue. I didn’t want to risk melting the fabric and kept my iron settings on low. I did have a hard time getting seams to stay pressed open. I think it is just the nature of the fabric, but I might experiment with the iron setting a bit more and see if I can add a bit more heat.

Tamarack Bias Binding Detail | Style Maker Fabrics

All in all, I LOVE this jacket! I achieved everything I wanted, a light weight jacket to throw on everyday this fall until the colder temperatures arrive. I love the floral bias detail on all the edges and the pockets. Just enough interest added the “black canvas” of the quilted solid. P.S. I highly recommend this pocket alteration. I love the angled opening!

Nylon Tamarack Jacket Front | Style Maker Fabrics

Nylon Tamarack Jacket Back | Style Maker Fabrics

Nylon Tamarack Jacket Fall Colors | Style Maker Fabrics

What do you think? Ready to try some alternative fabric choices, like quilted nylon? I couldn’t be happier with my results and it is totally unexpected to be memade!

What are you working on for your fall wardrobe? Any suggestions for my next project? I’m thinking maybe a fall trench coat in a soft nylon twill and the Papercut Sapporo is definitely on my list!

Happy Fall Sewing!

Michelle

Fall Style Blog Tour Recap 2017

Talk about inspiration overload! Last weekend we wrapped up two amazing weeks of fall sewing and style inspiration. Each seamstress selected fabrics from our fall collection and created their own unique look for fall. Our favorite part? Seeing each of their personalities shine through in their projects and their beautiful photos.

Here is a look back at each of the stops. We have also included links to all of the patterns and fabrics used for easy reference all in one place! Revisit some of your favorite looks or discover one you maybe missed.


Day 1 – Style Maker Fabrics

Each season we kick things off on the Style Maker blog! This year we experimented with the return of the leisure suite, elevating a cozy sweatshirt and sweatpants with some unexpected fabric choices. Read all about it HERE.

Style Maker Fabrics | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: Gemma Sweater by Named | Ruri Sweatpants by Named

Fabrics: Stretch Velour | Stretch Double Twill Suiting


Day 2 – Chalk and Notch

Next we visited Gabriela, designer behind Chalk and Notch patterns. She took her fall sewing to the max and actually created her own mini capsule wardrobe. We can’t wait to see how she mixes and matches each piece this season! Learn more about it HERE.

Chalk and Notch | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: Hacked Panama Tee by Alina Design CoLander Pant by True Bias | Lodo Dress by True Bias | Self Drafted Cardigan

Fabrics: Agate Scuba Knit | Stretch Denim| Speckle Sweater Knit


Day 3 – ThreadBear Garments

Essence of style! Leslie hit it out of the park with her killer moto-style jacket in cozy sweatshirt fleece and designer denim. Then, to top things off she wowed everyone with her stipe matching skills on her Ebony Tee for a second fall look. Read more about each HERE.

ThreadBear Garments | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: Mai Zip Jacket by Named | Ebony Tee by Closet Case

Fabrics: Designer Stretch Denim | Sweatshirt Fleece | Mini Stripe Jersey Knit 


Day 4 – Handmade by Lara Liz

Looking for some great fall layers, Lara sewed up three wardrobe basics that she can mix with any number of other pieces all season long. Each piece is beautiful on its own, but aren’t they even more stunning together?! Learn more in her post HERE.

Handmade by Lara Liz | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: Alberta Street Pencil Skirt by Sew House 7 | Gemma Tank by Made by Rae | Cocoon Cardigan by Patterns for Pirates

Fabrics: Rose Printed Stretch Denim | Sueded Modal Shirting| Sweatshirt Fleece


Day 5 – The Doing Things Blog

On Day 5 Tori, of The Doing Things Blog, shared two amazing fall looks in soft drapey rayons. To ease into her fall sewing she started with a simple but stylish pullover top that she can easily dress up or down for whatever fall brings. For her second look, Tori turned things up a notch with this gorgeous wrap dress! Find out more about both looks HERE.The Doing Things Blog | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: M7534 by McCalls | Lou Box Top by Sew DIY

Fabrics: Floral Rayon Challis | Sueded Modal Shirting


Day 6 – Girls in the Garden

Next up Lori, of Girls in the Garden, wowed everyone with her pattern matching skills on this Vogue jacket. Such a cool use of this jacquard woven and aren’t the colors gorgeous? Read more about the extra details she included in her jacket and her matching knit top HERE.

Girls in the Garden | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: V9275 by Vogue | Ruched-T by Angela Wolf

Fabrics: Patchwork Jacquard | Bamboo Jersey Knit


Day 7 – Goodbye Valentino

One of the favorite stops on the tour this season! Sarah, of Goodbye Valentino, sewed up this cozy boucle cardigan you can’t help but want to snuggle up in. She even had enough fabric left over to sew up a second look and we aren’t sure which we like better! Find out more in her post HERE.

Goodbye Valentino | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: M6844 by McCalls | Esme Knit Top by Style Arc

Fabric: Boucle Sweater Knit


Day 8 – Straight Stitch Designs

More fall layers! Kimberly, designer behind Straight Stitch Designs, sewed up three separates she can enjoy all season. She experimented with different colors and textures and the results are amazing! Check out more photos and get all the info on each piece HERE.

Straight Stitch Designs | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: Morris Blazer by Grainline Studio | Wedgwood Skirt by Straight Stitch Designs | Montlake Tee by Straight Stitch Designs

Fabrics: Herringbone Flannel Suiting | Suede Modal Shirting | Speckle Jersey Knit


Day 9 – Inside the Hem

For Day 9 on the tour Lindsey, of Inside the Hem, shared her video post of this striking color blocked ponte dress. This color combo and graphic design are perfect for fall and doesn’t the unique construction look fun to sew? Get lots of tips and more info in her post HERE.

Added bonus! In case you missed it, Lindsey also helped us launch our fall fabric collection with another one of her epic swatch review videos. Check it out HERE.

Inside the Hem | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Pattern: V1555 by Vogue

Fabrics: Various Ponte Knits


Day 10 – Brittany J Jones

Next up, Brittany shared two pieces perfect for her fun urban style! Both pattern/fabric combinations are spot on and those colors are gorgeous. Learn more in her written/video post HERE.Brittany J Jones | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: S8060 by Simplicity | S8418 by Simplicity

Fabrics: Soft Tencel Twill | Cross Weave Nylon Twill Coating


Day 11 – Sew MarieFleur

For Day 11 we jumped across the Atlantic and visited Fleurine, of Sew MarieFleur, amid the incredible Norwegian scenery! She shared a gorgeous floral dress full of the autumn colors you can’t help but love this season. And doesn’t her cocoon cardigan look cozy?! Get lots of great tips on how to make both patterns even better for the cooler weather in her post HERE.

Sew MarieFleur | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: Carrie Cardigan by Delia Creates | Adrift Dress by Papercut

Fabrics: Textured Boucle Sweater Knit | Autumn Floral Rayon Crepe


Day 12 – Cookin’ & Craftin’

Excited to be sewing for “true” fall weather again, Meg shared this amazing funnel neck dress. For extra warmth in the cold New England winters, she paired it with this stunning drape front jacket. Great pieces on their own and even better together! Read more in her post HERE.

Cookin and Craftin | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Patterns: Neenah Dress by Seamwork | Estelle Ponte Jacket by Style Arc

Fabrics: Ponte Knit Solid | Herringbone Wool Double Knit


Day 13 – Made by Rae

Last but not least! Rae, founder of Made by Rae, shared two variations on her Beatrix pullover. The first is a straight forward take on the pattern but it shines in this gorgeous wine colored rayon crepe. The second offers playful bell sleeves in elegant winter white. Learn more about each look in her posts HERE and HERE.

Made by Rae | SMF Fall Style Tour 2017

Pattern: Beatrix Pullover Top (2 ways)

Fabrics: Romantic Floral Rayon Crepe | Rayon Shirting


A huge thank you goes to all the amazing seamstresses that joined us for our style tour this season! We can’t help but admire all of your talents and creativity and we are so happy you could join us. To everyone that followed along with us, we can’t thank you enough for all your support! Hopefully you got some ideas, found some new patterns or just got inspired to sew this season.

Happy Sewing!

P.S. Spring Style Tour 2018 coming in March!